xFader Build Instructions

Collect the tools and parts you'll need to build an xFader.

Parts List

(1) Precut Cassette Case
(1) Stereo Fader Unit 60mm
(1) 6' Stereo Cable Extention Cord
(2) 5mm Screws
(4) 3M Vinyl Feet
(1) Fader Slider Knob
(1) Stereo Audio Output Jack (enclosed) with retainer bolt
(1) 4" Stereo Cable
(1) 3" Copper Ground Cable

Not Shown

(1) Serial Sticker
(1) Builder Sticker
(1) xFader Shell Sticker
(1) Outer Packaging Sticker
(1) Static Bag (7"x8")
(1) 6' Stereo Splitter Cable

Tools Required

Soldering Iron
Xacto Blade
Wire Stripper
Wire Cutter
Tiny Phillips Head Screwdriver

Preflight Check

Check Leads for Continuity, Cut to Length
Check Precut Cassette Case for Accuracy/Durability/Wear
Check Slider for Continuity/Cleanliness

Sticker Box

Start with the Serial Sticker. The words 'Serial #' should face up, toward the slot in the top of the cassette case. The White V on the left and right should line up with the sides of the plastic.

Close the case securely, then wrap the serial number sticker around the box. Since it'll be closed most of the time, we want to apply it in that position. When you re-open the box to install everything else, the sticker may crack back and off at the joints, this is fine.

The Build Sticker should have your name on it, and the serial number of this unit, and build date. All written in by you, the builder. This is installed facing out on the inside of the case cover. This sticker generally should not be seen by customers, but might, so make it legible!

Install Fader

The 4-terminal half of the fader goes to the left. Attach it to the box securely with the (2) 5mm screws. Set the heads of the screws flush with the plastic top.

The Installed fader. If you'd like, you may bend the 6 terminals sticking straight up flat. They should bend so they cover the respective hole behind them.

Cut Input Leads to Length

Check the cable before cutting it for continuity by plugging both ends into the cable tester. If it fails, toss it.

They should be 8" total cable length. Do not include the adapter/connector at the end in your measurement.

Push them through the serial number sticker where the art comes to a V. There is a pre-drilled hole back there.

Do this with both leads.

Pull them all the way through, so the connectors are flush with the outside of the case. Tie a knot in the cable, and tighten it so that the knot is 5" down. Strip the end of the cable approximately 1.5", and separate the ground from the two (white & red) leads. Strip the leads approximately 1/4" apiece, then snug the knots to the top of the case, ready for soldiering.

Build Output Assembly

With this particular output assembly, we must start by doing a slight modification. We remove 2 of the 5 pins. See this photo above for an example of which two pins to remove.

Bend the 3" Copper Ground Cable in half, then pinch over the bottom terminal (offset from the other two slightly), and solder the two together.

Repeat with the (2) white & red leads from the 4" Stereo Cable, with the white lead on top, red lead in the middle.

This is what you should end up with.

Install Output Assembly

Using the output assembly, punch it through the sticker into the box, at the middle of the X on the serial sticker. This way, we push the sticker into the case, giving us a cleaner installation appearance. When you've punched the hole, remove and re-insert the output assembly in the proper position.

Hand-tighten the nut around the output assembly. The paper here is fragile and will rip and tear if you use tools on it.

Main Wire Soldering

Make sure all the shielded red & white wires have the ends stripped by 1/4" so the metal is exposed.

Solder the three white leads to the terminals on the outside edge of the fader. The right input should go the right, and left to left, the output being hooked up to the terminal at the far left.

Do the same with the red leads, only the terminals on the inside of the case, closer to the input/output assembly.

Connect and solder the ground wires, then bend so they won't interfere with any other cables inside.

Test for Functionality!

If it passes the function test, it can be sealed with hot glue, and passed onto wrapping and packaging.

You're Done Making an xFader!

Applying Wrap and Knob

With this particular knob, we have to cut a 1/4" off the top of the fader post that sticks out the top of the xFader. Wire cutters make quick work of it. Beware of the flying metal piece that will be ejected!

Apply Outside Sticker

Line it up so the fader knob slot (barely visible through the tiny slot in the sticker) is parallel to the slot in the sticker. A slight offset will wear the skin quicker then necessary. Use the two artwork side bars to center the sticker over the case.

If you apply the sticker from the top of the case down, you have opportunities to remove and reapply it before settling into final position.

Once satisfied with your sticker placement, wrap the sides around the case. I like to invert the case, and set it on a desk, with the fader slider offset. once both sides are securely applied, you can roll the case forward to apply the bottom evenly. Make sure it's secure by going over it with both hands in all directions.

Apply Stabilizer Feet

These are applied by hand to the bottom of the stickered case. One in each corner, approximate same placement.

Knot the two input leads, then wrap them around the sides of the xFader, wrap a rubber band around the entire front and wires to keep them together for shipping. You can also apply the top knob.

Insert Into packaging

The xFader wrapped in a rubber band goes in first, facing front. The audio cable follows on top. There should be packaged advertising and stickers included behind the xFader.

Outer Sticker with Color Chipped xFader